Innovation alert: superficial chemical peeling, one of the most common procedures performed by aesthetic doctors, is now inviting itself into our bathrooms for use at home. Why don't we tell you more?

41% of French women who had recourse to aesthetic medicine started with a professional superficial peel to restore smooth, firm, even skin and tightened skin texture. While there's no shortage of very superficial peels for use at home, there are few professional formulas that can be used at home. Dr. Nicolas reviews these new, more sophisticated and less aggressive professional-quality formulas.

What is the purpose of a professional superficial peel?

A peel is a medical aesthetic technique for skin exfoliation, whereby the skin on the face (and/or neck and décolleté) is renewed after peeling.

"Dead surface cells that blur the complexion are eliminated, and cell renewal is stimulated. Peels also have a proven effect on the production of neo-collagen and hyaluronic acid, which improves skin density. Certain acids even have a direct action on tyrosinase (to reduce pigmentation spots), or on acne symptoms (papules, comedones) by neutralizing the Propionibacterium acnes bacteria responsible for acne," explains Dr. Nicolas.

The result: smoother, younger-looking skin, with no imperfections and a luminous complexion.

Monoacid vs. polyacid, which strategy to adopt?

Dermatologists very often opt for a single-acid strategy, i.e. a single, highly concentrated acid for maximum efficacy while minimizing the risk of skin reaction. Why?" It's quite logical," explains Dr. Nicolas. The more different acids you apply to the skin, the more ingredients you expose it to, and the greater the risk of an inflammatory reaction. If inflammation occurs, the patient can develop what we call Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, i.e. a pigmented area that is often quite extensive, and unfortunately definitive.

The^2nd reason concerns the effectiveness of the peel, for a question of target pH. Let me explain: each acid has a target pH, i.e. the pH that must be reached for the acid to be active. If the peel formula doesn't have the pH that corresponds to the acid's target pH, the acid is inactive (and the peel ineffective). A single-acid strategy therefore makes it possible to reach the target pH and ensure the peel's effectiveness, without exposing the skin to too many ingredients (for better tolerance).

And finally, a dermatologist will often prefer a superficial peel with a single high-dose acid, rather thana mixture of several low-dose acids, with multiple target pHs that are difficult to respect ".

So which acid should you choose?

Glycolic acid, the darling of aesthetic doctors

The benchmark for dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners remains glycolic acid. Why?" This fruit acid is quite magical, as its tiny molecular size will penetrate deep into the skin to not only effectively treat wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, but also blemishes and dull complexion. Another major quality is that it is suitable for all skin types, from dry skin to oily skin with a tendency to acne, which is not the case with all acids".

Its concentration for a professional peel varies progressively from 20% to 70% over the course of the sessions, depending on the thickness and sensitivity of the skin.

For the peel to be as effective as possible, the epidermis must be prepared beforehand, with a Pre-Peel solution that gradually lowers the pH and removes all residual sebum from the skin. This is essential," explains Dr. Nicolas, "because otherwise, in the T-zone, the sebum protects the skin from the action of the acid. The peel will then not be applied evenly over the area, and its effectiveness will be reduced. Even if the patient's face has been cleansed beforehand".

The steps in the in-office protocol that must be followed are :

Evening:

1. Cleaning (usually with antioxidant foam)
2. Pre-Peel solution
3. Peeling
4. Neutralization (with water, ideally mineral water)
5. Hydration/care
6. In the morning, SPF 50 to avoid the risk of pigmentation

A new molecular form of Glycolic Acid enables very high concentrations to be safely applied at home.

A new molecular form of Glycolic Acid would enable a gradual release of the acid on the skin for better tolerance, even for sensitive skin. For Dr. Nicolas, "this is a real breakthrough, because this molecular encapsulation would enable patients to perform peels with very high doses of Encapsulated Glycolic Acid (up to 20%, which is normally a professional dosage), in complete safety at home. Therapeutically, the patient could start the treatment before a professional peel, and apply it between sessions and after the professional peel to continue its action. Published scientific studies prove that this improves the efficacy and tolerance of professional peels, so it's very interesting".

Technically, how does it work? 1 glycolic acid molecule is embedded in a sphere of starch, which gradually melts, releasing the acid molecule to penetrate the epidermal layers. The difficulty lies in mastering the infinitely small, especially as glycolic acid molecules have the smallest molecular size of all AHAs.

What is the dermatological protocol for a safe and effective peel at home in the evening?

ADVANCED PEEL