It's now proven: if there's not enough water in the dermis, collagen and elastin fibers become rigid, and the skin loses its bounce and firmness... Today, aesthetic dermatologists are using new, science-based solutions. Why don't we tell you more?
Long presented as a comfort gesture, moisturizing is now seen as the key to youthful, radiant skin. Yes, hydration, collagen, elastin, fine lines and wrinkles... they're all linked!
HOW DOES HYDRATION WORK?
In the skin, explains Dr. Nicolas, 70% of water is stored in the dermis (the deep layer), thanks to water fixers called Glycosaminoglycans (GAGS), the best-known of which is Hyaluronic Acid. Naturally produced by keratinocytes (on the surface of the epidermis) and fibroblasts (deeper in the dermis), their role is to retain water in the skin's various layers, and hydrate collagen and elastin fibers.
The water then diffuses into the epidermis until it reaches the surface, where only 13% remains. It is this water content that gives the skin its suppleness, elasticity and plumped appearance. In the epidermis, 2 molecules are key to retaining water: Hyaluronic Acid (present in both the deep and superficial layers of the skin), and Aquaporins, small channels through which water circulates from one cell to another.
The skin naturally and continuously loses water through evaporation: this is Insensible Water Loss, to regulate body temperature, for example. So the skin constantly produces GAGS and Aquaporins to fix water again and again. But the passage of time will degrade this whole process...
THE SKIN'S SYNTHESIS OF HYALURONIC ACID DECLINES BY 10% EVERY DECADE, AND THAT OF COLLAGEN BY 25% A YEAR, FROM THE AGE OF 40.
As a result, skin gradually dries out, loses its bounce and fine lines and wrinkles appear.
Fortunately, research is advancing to offer ever more effective solutions!
A NEW MOLECULE IS MAKING INCREASING HEADLINES IN THE PRACTITIONER COMMUNITY: GLUCONOLACTONE
"When a practicing dermatologist needs to perform an Anti-Aging Moisturizing treatment, he often turns to Hyaluronic Acids, extremely effective molecules for immediately restoring a plumped and rejuvenated effect to the skin. For a surface treatment, he'll choose a high-molecular-weight (=1000kda), non-cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid ( its molecules are not linked together so as to be evenly distributed throughout the epidermis). For a deeper action, he will choose very low molecular weight Hyaluronic acids, which are rarer because they require mastery of the molecular hyper-fragmentation technique. A weight of 50Kda will enable Hyaluronic Acids to penetrate as far as the dermis to bind water molecules, but also boost procollagen I synthesis.
Scientists are particularly interested in a brand-new molecule: Gluconolactone. Until now, this molecule has only been used as an exfoliant for sensitive skin, with a concentration of over 7%. Its anti-aging properties have recently been discovered by doctors and are the subject of a growing number of scientific studies. They all demonstrate that, at a concentration of less than 7%, Gluconolactone is an exceptional anti-ageing moisturizer:
Not only does its molecular structure attract and bind water molecules in the skin, but it also increases the expression of Aquaporins (channels through which water circulates from cell to cell), stimulates cell regeneration, protects cells from oxidation, and has remarkable pro-collagen activity. In fact, in addition to stimulating the synthesis of pro-Collagen I and V (2 types of collagen which are "compatible" to form a collagen fiber), it inhibits the expression of enzymes responsible for degrading collagen fibers (matrix metalloproteinases).
This discovery is really shaking up anti-ageing moisturizing, and is being offered in a growing number of aesthetic clinics.
1ST BASIC TREATMENT: PROTECT SKIN CELLS WITH ANTI-UV AGENTS
ANTI-AGEING MOISTURIZING SOLUTIONS, THE CARE PROTOCOL OF DERMATOLOGIST DR NICOLAS
Highly purified, pharmaceutical-grade water extracted from Breton soils, combined with purifying micelles, super-moisturizing algae, pre-biotic ferments and detoxifying polyphenols for plump, moisture-rich skin.
HYDRA PROTOCOLE LIGHT MATTIFYING CREAM41,90 €
Like anti-aging without needles, this intensive moisturizing concentrate combines Hyaluronic Acids in various molecular structures to bind water in the skin's various layers and stimulate Pro-Collagen I synthesis. In addition to being a powerful anti-oxidant, Gluconolactone consolidates these collagen fibers and increases water retention at the heart of the epidermis for state-of-the-art anti-aging hydration.brings a powdery finish to the skin and absorbs excess sebum and shine.
Are you looking for a day cream that protects your skin from radiation (UVA, UVB but also blue light) and gives you a radiant, peachy complexion while stimulating the synthesis of Vit D, essential for cell renewal? DD Crème is for you! Its powerful anti-light screens (SPF 50 PA+++) protect your cells from cutaneous ageing, and its encapsulated micro-pigments adapt to your skin tone for a luminous, natural complexion. Non-cross-linked high-molecular-weight Hyaluronic Acid (1%) immediately plumps up your skin, while Vederine (3%) stimulates the synthesis of Vit D, essential for cell renewal...what more could you ask for?
In the evening, cleanse the skin with this foam enriched with anti-oxidants (cucumber, ginger, green tea, acerola and rosemary). It gently purifies the skin, tones and adds radiance and freshness.
A unique concentrate of encapsulated Retinol, Resorcinol, Niacinamide, Peptides, encapsulated Vitamin C and high-molecular-weight Hyaluronic Acid that work in synergy for a powerful Pro-lift anti-wrinkle action and repair the damage induced by daytime UV rays. Applied before night cream, it brightens your complexion and helps skin regain its ideal firmness-elasticity.
HYDRA PROTOCOLE RICH CREAM41,90 €
Like anti-aging without needles, this intensive moisturizing concentrate combines Hyaluronic Acids in various molecular structures to bind water in the skin's various layers and stimulate Pro-Collagen I synthesis. In addition to being a powerful anti-oxidant, Gluconolactone consolidates these collagen fibers and increases water retention at the heart of the epidermis for state-of-the-art anti-aging hydration.restructures the hydrolipidic film to bring comfort to malnourished skin.
